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  1. Tow Bar Base Plate
  2. Blue Ox
  3. Removable Draw Bars
  4. Twist Lock Attachment
  5. Completely Hidden
THIS ITEM IS NOT A FIT FOR
1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee
Blue Ox

Blue Ox Base Plate Kit - Removable Arms

$531.29
Tow Bar Base Plate
Not Confirmed to Fit

1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee

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Custom designed to fit your vehicle so it can be safely towed behind your RV, this base plate has easily removable arms that offer a seamless look when you're not flat towing. Base plate bolts directly to your chassis, so no welding is required. Great Prices for the best tow bar base plate from Blue Ox. Blue Ox Base Plate Kit - Removable Arms part number BX2331 can be ordered online at etrailer.com or call 1-800-940-8924 for expert service.
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Blue Ox Tow Bar Base Plate

  • Removable Draw Bars
  • Blue Ox
  • Twist Lock Attachment
  • Completely Hidden

Custom designed to fit your vehicle so it can be safely towed behind your RV, this base plate has easily removable arms that offer a seamless look when you're not flat towing. Base plate bolts directly to your chassis, so no welding is required.


Features:

  • Custom-fit base plate provides attachment points for your tow bar when flat towing
  • Hidden design provides a clean, seamless look
    • Arms remove with a simple twist when not in use
    • Brackets won't protrude past the front of your vehicle
  • Sturdy design spreads towing force evenly to prevent stress on your vehicle's suspension
  • Integrated mounting points let you easily attach an electrical connector plug with bracket (sold separately)
  • Receiver covers keep dirt and debris out of the base plate when arms are removed and provide a finished look
  • Durable steel construction is powder coated to resist rust and corrosion
  • Straightforward installation - no welding required
    • Base plate bolts securely to your vehicle's chassis with included mounting hardware
  • Sturdy lugs pair with Blue Ox tow bars to form a secure and reliable connection
    • Adaptable for use with Roadmaster tow bars - adapter (RM-031 or RM-031-5) sold separately
    • Adaptable for use with Demco tow bars - adapter (DM9523041) sold separately
  • Made in the USA


Specs:

  • Distance between brackets: 20"
  • Bracket height: 14-1/2"
  • 3-Year warranty


Simple, Hidden Design

Blue Ox Base Plate With Arms AttachedBlue Ox Base Plate Arms Removed

This base plate's hidden design creates a clean and seamless look. The bracket arms are easily removable, creating a slick appearance when you're not flat towing. Because the arms can be removed, you also won't have to worry about banging your leg into any protruding arms when you walk by.


Blue Ox Base Plate Removable Arms

Attaching and removing the bracket arms is a breeze. To attach the arms to the base plate, simply insert them into the receivers and rotate them until they lock into place. Once you're finished towing and want to remove the arms, pull the pin to disengage the lock, rotate the arms, and remove them from the receivers. Finally, plug up the now empty receivers with the included receiver covers to help keep dirt and debris out of the base plate and provide a finished look.


Guide to Flat Towing

Flat towing your vehicle is much more convenient than using a trailer or a tow dolly. These other options take up much more storage space, leaving you less room both at home and at the campsite. In addition, securing your vehicle to a trailer or tow dolly can be a hassle and more time consuming than hooking up with a tow bar.


There are 5 basic components needed when flat towing a vehicle: a tow bar, a base plate kit, a safety cable set, tow bar wiring, and a supplemental braking system.


Towing Basics

The tow bar links your towed car to your motorhome. It attaches to the custom-fit base plates that install on the frame of your towed car. Safety cables ensure that your towed car does not separate from your motorhome in the event that your tow bar becomes detached. Tow bar wiring allows your towed vehicle's signal lights to sync up with your motorhome's tail lights, which is required by law in most states. Finally, the supplemental braking system - also required in most states - brakes your towed car when the brakes in your motorhome are activated, preventing wear on the motorhome and decreasing braking distance for your entire setup.



BX2331 Blue Ox Baseplate - Removable Tabs

Item # BX2331

Installation Details BX2331 Installation instructions

This Product Fits The Following Vehicles



California residents: click here


Video of Blue Ox Base Plate Kit - Removable Arms

Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.




Video Transcript for DIY 2014 Hyundai Elantra Installation for the Blue Ox Base Plate Kit

Today on our 2014 Hyundai Elantra, we're going to be installing the Blue Ox base plate kit with removable arms, part number BX2331. We'll begin our installation by first raising up the hood of the vehicle. With the hood up, we'll need to remove some fasteners underneath the hood here. There's a total of five fasteners that we'll need to take out. Now to remove the fasteners, we'll take a Philips head screwdriver, we'll loosen them up a little, and we'll take our trim panel removal tool or a large flat-head screwdriver and we'll pull them out the rest of the way. We'll go ahead and repeat this same process for the other four fasteners. Next, we're going to need to go into the fender well and we're going to begin here on the passenger side. We're going to need to take that bolts out right there. To remove the bolt, we're going to be using a 10mm socket.

We'll go ahead and repeat the same process over on the driver side. Next, we're going to need to remove this center under-body panel here and there are several fasteners that we'll need to remove. There's some push fasteners across the front edge, so there's back here a little bit. There's also some bolts we'll need to take out, one here, here, here, and here. It looks like there's a total of 12 fasteners that we'll need to remove in order to lower down the center under-body panel. Again, with the push fasteners first, removing them in the same manner that we did on the top side. We'll again be using a 10mm socket to remove the screws. Now to speed things up, we're going to go ahead and switch over to our battery ratchet here.

With the fasteners all removed, we can go ahead and set the panel down out of the way. Next, we're going to need to remove two push fasteners here on the driver side, one here, and one here. We'll then go ahead and repeat the same process over on the passenger side. Next, it's a good idea to get an extra set of hands to help you remove the front fascia . We go to each of the fender wells and gently pull our on the fascia, unclipping it as we go. Next, we're going to need to remove two bolts to remove this plastic piece here on the passenger side, one here, and one here. We'll again be using a 10mm socket to do this.

We'll go ahead then and repeat the same process over on the driver side. Next, we're going to need to come back up to the top side of the vehicle here at the air intake. We're going to need to remove this push fastener here, as well as this one here. To remove them, just simply push in on the center portion, that will release it, or you can then lift it out. Go ahead and set them aside for reinstallation. Next, we're over here on the driver side, we're going to need to remove this fastener that secures the wires here to the air box, a large flat-head screwdriver or a trim panel removal tool will allow you to do that. We'll then going to need take the bolt out that's right here, as well as back here on the back side.

We'll be again using a 10mm socket to do that. Next, we're going to need to come underneath the vehicle, we'll need to remove this bolt right here that's connected to the air box, again, a 10mm socket. Go ahead and slide the two pair up the air box. Now once we have all the bolts removed from the baffle, we did notice that there is one additional wire that's connected here to the top side that you're going to need to remove as well. Again, we'll just take a trim panel removal tool or a large flat-head screwdriver, work it into place here. We need to pop this wire free as well. Now we can go ahead and remove the air baffle and set it aside. Next, we're going to need to come over here on the passenger side. We're going to need to remove the inaudible 04:31 washer fluid bottle. We're going to first need to unplug the connector here with the motor, push in on the locking tab and gently pull upward. Now before we can remove the washer fluid bottle, there's a wiring harness right here that is connected to the top side of the bottle. We're just going to use a long small flat-headed screwdriver to work the fitting out of the back side. Now we've gone ahead and pull the hose off of the pump here and we put a rubber cap in place over it. Now if you don't have anything to kept this off, it will drain the washer fluid bottle. For now, we just put a rubber cap temporarily on it so that we can remove the bottle. Go ahead and work the hose up and out of the way. Next, we're going to need to reach up into here where there's a Philips head screw that we'll need to loosen up a little and we'll take that all the way out. We'll just loosen it up as it just slides over it. We'll then going to need to take our 10mm socket, we'll need to remove a bolt here, as well as in there. Now this connector right here that's underneath the reservoir bottle, we're going to need to remove that in order to get our reservoir bottle to slide out. There's a 10mm nut located on the top side of it we'll need to back out. This little connector right here is what I removed in order to get the washer fluid bottle to come free. Next, we're going to need to undo the wiring harness here on the driver side. We're going to need to remove this tab here, here, and right here. I'm going to simply take a pair of needle nose and squeeze in on it. We'll also need to go ahead and remove the actual connection point from the body. Next, we're going to need to remove these two wires here that are grounded to the vehicle's frame. We're going to move them from right here and attach them in with this ground. Now in order to get our two ground wires to reach over here to this ground point, you may have to remove some of that protective tape that the wires are wrapped up in, that way, it gives you a little more slack so that you can reach over to there. We're going to go ahead and take this one out as well so we can add in the other two. Now in order to connect this ground in with the other ones, we're going to need to take this little tab here and bend it out. We can then go ahead and reattach everything with the bolt. Next, we're going to go ahead and need to remove the horn from both sides of the vehicle. We'll start over on the passenger side, we'll go ahead and squeeze in on the locking tab for the electrical connector, gently pull outward. We'll then need to remove the bolt right here using our 10mm socket. We'll go ahead then and set the horn aside for now. Go ahead and repeat the same process over here on the driver side. Next, we're going to remove the bumper core here. To do that, there's going to be a total of four bolts, one here, here, here, and here. It should be the same on each side, as well as this little nut right here. We're going to go ahead and remove all of the bolts first and we'll come back and remove the nut on each side last, that way, the bumper core is still held in place. We'll be using a 12mm socket to remove each of the bolts. Next, we'll go ahead and remove the nut from each side. Now it's a good idea before you remove the second nut here to get an extra set of hands to help you support the bumper core structure. With the nut removed, we can go ahead and set the whole bumper core off. Next, we're going to need to do some trimming. We're cutting out some metal right here. We're going to measure from just underneath here over an inch and a half. We're going to need to trim out this area that we're marking out here with our paint pin. We'll then go down to the second rib here on the plastic. We're going to remove this section right here, this is over on the driver side and we'll need to repeat the same process, as well as cut out the same area over on the passenger side. Now to cut this section out, we need to use a reciprocating-style saw, a cut off wheel on your grinder, or any other appropriate means to trim this area out. Now that we have our driver side cut out, we'll go ahead and repeat the same process over on the passenger side. Next, we're going to need to trim the plastic here on the passenger side. Go ahead and take our paint marker and mark out where we need to trim, so we're removing this section right here. Now over here on the driver side, go ahead and take our tape measure and mark out area that needs to be cut, so you want to cut the line just above where the rib is. Here, you can kind of see the line built into the plastic. Next, we're going to go ahead and use our rotary tool with the cut off bit. We'll go ahead and trim out our plastic pieces. Go ahead and move over and cut off the driver side as well. Next, we're going to need to go ahead and temporary place our bumper back up into position. Now with an extra set of hands, we'll hold our bumper up into position, we're going to take our paint marker, and we're going to trace on the back side of the bumper the area that we trimmed out earlier. We'll need to make sure that we cut the same area out on our bumper and we'll need to do this for both the driver and the passenger side. Now that we have it marked out, we can go ahead and remove it. Now we'll need to go ahead and cut out the marked areas. Now anywhere where we have exposed metal from recently cutting out sections, it's a good idea to take a little paint and touch it off and cover over that metal; that way, it doesn't rust. Next, we're going to need to take the bumper here and we're going to need to cut the horn bracket off at this location here and here. Now since this vehicle does have two horns, we'll need to repeat the same process over on the driver side of the bumper. Now it's a good idea to get an extra set of hands to help you put the base plate into position. Go ahead and slide it up into position. Now that we have our base plate up into position, we're going to line up this hole right here, this is one of the mounting locations for the washer bottle. Next, we're going to take a 6mm bolt, a quarter inch lock washer, quarter inch flat washer. We're going to install it in this hole right here where it threads in to the existing weld nut. Now over here on the driver side, we have lined up with this hole right here. Over here, we're going to use the 6mm by 45mm hex bolt; it looks like this, quarter inch lock washer, and quarter inch flat washer. Next, we're going to need go ahead and put our base plate level with the bumper, we'll then going . over here on the driver side, take a pair of big clamps and lock it into place. Now that we have the driver side locked into place, we can go ahead and move over to the passenger side where we'll need to drill some holes out. Now that we have our base plate clamp in position, as well as a couple of screws, as well as a couple of bolts holding it into position, we're going to need to drill out the four remaining holes on each side; one here, here, here, and here. Now that we have one of the holes drilled to help secure it a little more, we're going to go ahead and take the bolt that looks like this, lock washer, and a handle nut. Now when we permanently secure them, we will need to make sure that we use red Loctite on all the hardware but for now, we're just going to install it so that it helps keep everything from moving around. We'll put the bolt in, we'll reach the handle nut in. We'll just go ahead and temporary tighten that down and then we can continue drilling out our holes. Now to drill this hole out up here, there's a lower piece of plastic right here, it's what's hitting the drill and causing it so you can get it in there to drill that. We're just going to go ahead and take our rotary tool and just trim out a little bit of this plastic here to allow the drill to feed up in it. Now that we trimmed out our area here, it gave us a little bit of access to get our drill and our drill bit up into that upper location. We also want to have and install the second bolt just the same as the first with the lock washer to help keep everything a little more secure as we drill. We go ahead and temporarily put this upper one 15:05 up here as well. Now for this bottom location, we're going to wait until we get the other side drilled out before we put that in there, that way, we can put the lock tight on it and just install it one time. Now that we've got all the holes drilled out on both sides, next, we're ready to install our hardware for good. Now on each of the hardware for securing the base plate to the vehicle, we're going to be adding some red Loctite, it's part number LT37420. Next, we'll go ahead and add our Loctite to all of our bolts. We're going to start over here on the driver side. Now that we have Loctite on all four of the bolts, make sure that our lock washers' on each and then we'll go ahead . and for the top three holes, we'll be using the handle nut that looks like this. Now to get the handle nut into position for down here, you will need to bend it in quite a few different ways in order for the hole to line up. There's not a lot of room in there, so you will have to do a trial and error and it may take several attempts to get everything to line up just right. Now with our hardware hand-tight on the driver side, we'll move over to the passenger side where we removed any bolts that we already have installed, add Loctite, and reinstall them. Now that we have all the hardware installed with the red Loctite, we'll go ahead and tighten down all the hardware and then torque it to the manufacturer specification. We'll then go ahead and take the bolt that we used to help align everything back out that will be reinstalled later when we put the washer bottle back on. We'll then go ahead and repeat the same process over on the driver side. Now with all of our hardware torque down, we're going to need to go ahead and trim off the excess handle nut piece here. To do that, we're just going to use a pair of tin snips. Now we'll go ahead and repeat that same process over on the driver side. Next, we're going to need to flip the bumper over, so this here is the passenger side. Right here is where the horn bracket was attached. We're going to come over to this hole right here and drill all the way through this bottom section. This hole here is to attach the breakaway switch bracket. Right there is where we came out. Right there is the hole we enlarged. Next, we're ready to go ahead and reinstall our bumper. Now with our bumper back in place, we can go ahead and reinstall the hardware. Once we have the hardware installed on the driver side, keeping in mind that one of the four main bolts that holds the bumper structure to the vehicle, that location had been cut off to mount our base plate. Go ahead and repeat the same process over on the passenger side. Now with all of our hardware installed, we can go ahead and tighten it down and then torque it to the manufacturer specification. Next, we're going to need to reattach our horn. We're going to begin over here on the passenger side, this little hole drilled right here in the base plate is what we'll be mounting our horn to. Now you'll notice that there's little tab or edge of the metal bracket is going to hit the base plate to get our horn to point down in this direction. We're going to need to just trim this corner off to allow the horn to fit properly. To attach the horn, we'll be using this quarter inch bolt and a lock nut. Now we've gone ahead and trimmed off a corner, you ca see here, now our hole will line up. Install the bolt, put the lock nut on the back side. Now with the hardware installed, holding the horn in place, we can go ahead and reconnect the electrical connection on the back side, as well as tighten down the bolt and the nut. Now for over here on the driver side, we'll go ahead and repeat the same process, but we are going to need drill a hole to attach the horn to the base plate. We will be reinstalling it in the same location as over on the passenger side. We're going to go ahead and plug our electrical connection in, put the wiring harness back into fitting there. We're going to make sure we have enough wire. Now we'll go ahead and hold our horn up in place. We're going to put a dot where we need to drill a hole. Go ahead and check 20:49 horn back down and we'll drill that out so that we can attach it with the bolt and the nut, the same as we use on the other side. With our hole drilled out, we can go ahead and attach our horn. Next, we're going to go ahead and attach our breakaway switch bracket. We'll be using the hole that we drilled out here on the underside of the bumper, bracket will going to go like this, and the hardware we'll be using as this longer quarter inch bolt, a quarter inch nylon lock nut. Now in order to put the nut on, you will need to reach your hand to the back side of the bumper in in-between the two beams on the bumper. Now with our bracket in the hardware in place, we can go ahead and tighten it down. Next, we're going to go ahead and reinstall the air box. Next, we'll need to go ahead and reinstall our washer fluid bottle. We'll need to reinstall the correct hardware here that goes through the washer bottle and into the base plate, this is the hardware that we used earlier to help center and hold the base plate in place while we drilled out the additional holes. Once you have the washer bottle reconnected, you want to make sure you connect any wires, as well as route your washer hose back down through and connect it back onto the palm 22:39. We can then go ahead and reconnect our electrical connector. Next, we're going to need to install our safety cable with our quick link and we will be going right here to this bracket. Now in routing the safety cable, you want to make sure that it's not going to rub against any hoses or electrical connections as these could be damaged overtime. With our cable secure, we'll go ahead and tighten down the quick link. Now that we have the passenger side completed, we'll go ahead and repeat the same process over on the driver side. Install our two under-body panels here, one on the driver side, and one on the passenger side. Now over here on the passenger side, you'll notice that our safety cable is hitting the front cover. We're just going to go ahead and trim that out a little so that we get some clearance. We're going to trim out right up here in this area to give us some clearance around the safety cable. Next, we've gone ahead and temporarily held our front fascia back up onto the vehicle because we need to figure out exactly where we're going to need to trim on this lower grille. It looks like if we take out here, and here, it will allow the removable arm tabs to slide through. We're going to go ahead and take our paint marker and mark out where we need to trim and we'll do this on both sides. Now we can go ahead and set our front fascia aside. We can go ahead and cut out our lower grille section. To do this, we'll be using a rotary tool with the cut off bit. Now after test-fitting the fascia again, we found that the safety cable arms we're hitting right here on both sides, so we're going to go ahead and trim both of these out as well. Now with our front fascia back on, we can go ahead and reinstall all the fasteners that we removed to take it off. Once it's done, we'll go ahead and put the plastic under-body panel back on as well. Now let's go ahead and show you how the removable arms work. You'll line up the slot right here with the tab that's inside there, the slot that's inside the base plate, and you push it in, pull out on the ring, twist so that it locks into position. Over here on the passenger side, installs the same way. Your tow bar will then hook to here, your safety cables will be hooked to these tabs. Here's two prongs 26:19 for your wiring that can connect to it, as well as if you remember, we connected up underneath there the breakaway switch bracket if you would install a breaking system at a later time. To remove them, you simply pull out on the ring, rotate the arm, and slide it out. When you're not using the base plate, they do come with these plastic caps that you can put in to keep dirt and debri from getting into the holes on the base plate. With that, that will do it for the installation of the Blue Ox base plate kit with removable arms, part number BX2331, as installed on our 2014 Hyundai Elantra. .

Ratings & Reviews

4.8

3503 reviews
Custom designed to fit your vehicle so it can be safely towed behind your RV, this base plate has easily removable arms that offer a seamless look when you're not flat towing. Base plate bolts directly to your chassis, so no welding is required.

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Prompt service!



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Great service



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Fast shipping, good price, good product, easy install.



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See what our Experts say about this Blue Ox Tow Bar Base Plate

  • Parts Needed to Flat-Tow a 2012 Hyundai Elantra
    Yes, according to my research your 2012 Hyundai Elantra with the manual transmission can be flat-towed with all four wheels down but you will want to confirm this with your owner's manual. In order to do this you will need a base plate kit, tow bar, flat-tow wiring harness, safety cables, supplemental braking system, and possibly a high-low adapter. I have attached my recommendations for each of these parts below. For a base plate kit I recommend the Blue Ox Base Plate Kit part # BX2331...
    view full answer...
  • Recommended Components For Flat-Towing 2013 Hyundai Elantra With Motorhome
    To flat-tow your Hyundai Elantra behind your motorhome you will need 5 items. You will need base plates, a tow bar, safety cables, lighting for the Elantra, and most states now require a supplemental brake system. If your Elantra is not a GT the Blue Ox base plates, part # BX2331 would work well. The tow bar that would also work well is the Blue Ox Alpha Tow Bar, part # BX7380. This tow bar is designed with a motor home mount and will work well with the BX2331 base plates. This tow bar...
    view full answer...
  • Will 2013 Hyundai Elantra Roadmaster Crossbar Style Base Plate Kit Fit with a Blue Ox Tow Bar
    Yes, you can install the Roadmaster Crossbar-Style Base Plate Kit # 521632-1 on your 2013 Hyundai Elantra and use it with a Blue Ox tow bar as long as you also use the Roadmaster Tow Bar Adapter # RM-032. This setup is compatible with the following Blue Ox tow bars: - Blue Ox Aventa, Aventa II, Aventa LX, Alpha, Ambassador, Kar Bar, Aladdin, Alexxa, and Acclaim tow bars, as well as all Blue Ox A-Frame tow bars with 1 or 3 pronged attachment If you'd rather ditch the adapter and just...
    view full answer...
  • Does Odometer on 2012 Hyundai Elantra Manual Transmission Record Mileage When Towed
    Late model cars with electronic dash displays generally do not record towed miles since the key is typically in the off position. With the key off such electronic circuits will not have power and so they will usually not record mileage when the car is flat towed. If your car is an exception to this general rule you can find out by recording mileage before and after a flat towing trip.
    view full answer...

Do you have a question about this Tow Bar Base Plate?


Info for this part was:

Employee Andrew K
Video by:
Andrew K
Employee Lindsey S
Written by:
Lindsey S
Employee Adele M
Updated by:
Adele M
Employee Wilson B
Updated by:
Wilson B
Employee Mike S
Updated by:
Mike S
Employee Carrie F
Updated by:
Carrie F
Employee Adam R
Expert Research:
Adam R
Employee Shane T
Test Fit:
Shane T

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